Chess tactics, motif by motif
Learn the pattern, then drill it. Every motif below is explained and linked to free chess puzzles taken from real games.
Fork
One piece, two targets. On Lichess, more puzzles turn on the fork than on any other motif, over twice as many as on the pin. It is the first tactic worth mastering.
Pin
A pinned piece cannot move without exposing something more valuable behind it, so it can no longer be trusted as a defender.
Skewer
A pin turned around: the valuable piece is in front, it must move, and the piece behind it falls.
Discovered attack
Move one piece and a different piece behind it makes the threat. The piece that moved can make a threat of its own, so one move often creates two attacks.
Double check
Two checks at the same time, and the king has to move. No other answer is legal.
Back rank mate
A castled king behind three unmoved pawns has no square to step up to. A rook or queen that checks it along the back rank is mate unless something can capture the checker or block the check.
Smothered mate
In one of the prettiest mates in chess, a knight checks a king that cannot move because its own pieces fill every square around it.
Deflection
A piece is doing an important job. Give it something it cannot refuse, and the job goes undone.
Decoy
Do not chase the king. Invite it onto a square where a knight is waiting.
Zwischenzug
The expected recapture can wait. Insert a check or a bigger threat first, and the whole exchange changes value.
Mate in 2
Force mate in two moves. It is pure calculation training, and you can always prove the answer: every defense runs into mate.
Mate in 3
Force mate in three moves against every defense. This is usually the depth where spotting a pattern stops being enough and you have to calculate each line.
Why tactics training works
Most games below master level are decided by tactical mistakes, not by strategy. Tactics training works because the patterns repeat: the same fork, the same back rank, the same deflection, in position after position. Once you have seen a pattern often enough, you stop calculating it and start recognizing it.
That is also why volume matters more than difficulty. Solving many puzzles slightly below your limit builds recognition faster than grinding a few very hard ones.
Solve properly: work out the whole line before you move, including the opponent's best defense. Guessing the first move and letting the interface confirm it trains nothing.
A routine that fits in ten minutes
- Start with the daily chess puzzle: easy, medium or hard, a new one of each every day.
- Solve ten to fifteen rated puzzles, calculating each one fully before playing.
- When you get one wrong, press Analyze at the end to open it on the analysis board. Work out what the right move was and why yours failed.
- Once a week, reread the guides above for the motifs you keep missing.
Frequently asked questions
What are chess tactics?
Short, forcing sequences, usually of checks, captures and threats, that win material or deliver mate because the opponent cannot answer every threat at once. Forks, pins and discovered attacks are among the most common. Strategy decides where your pieces belong; tactics decide most games below master level.
Where can I practice these tactics?
On the free chess puzzles trainer: rated puzzles from real games, and a theme picker that covers every motif on this page, so you can drill one at a time. For a smaller dose, the daily chess puzzles give you three new ones every day.
How many chess puzzles should I do a day?
Ten to twenty solved properly is worth more than a hundred rushed. The point is calculating the full line before moving; once you start guessing, stop for the day.
What tactics should I learn first?
Forks first, then pins. In Lichess's database of puzzles from real games, forks are by far the most common motif, and pins are among the next most common. After those, learn discovered attacks, skewers and the back rank.